Sanwa RD6000 Super Conversion to Frsky 2.4GHz
Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:29 pmJust a few quick few pictures and words on how to convert this.
Using one of these.
Into one of these?
OK then.
First things first remove the telescopic 35MHz aerial by unscrewing it.
Then remove the 6 screws from the back case. I know I forgot to highlight them all.
Once done carefully remove the back and fold it over to the left (when looked at from the back). Be carefull at this point as the trainer socket is on a short length of wire.
Remove the two screws holding the trainer socket in place so that the back case is completely free.
At this point you need to decide how and where to locate the bind button/LED assembly and the main 2.4GHz unit.
As this is to be a pure 2.4GHz conversion removing any need for the telescopic aerial, I removed the plastic guides moulded into the back case. This gives me the option of mounting the main unit at either the top or the bottom.
Next thing to do is to decide the aerial position. In this case it was a simple decision. Use the existing hole. This needs a little work to increase the diameter of the exit to accommodate the 2,4GHz aerial connector. Remove a little at a time and trial fit until a snug fit is obtained.
Insert the aerial connector and attach the nut to the top and tighten gently.
Aerial fitted snug and tightened up.
View from behind.
The next job is to affix the hack unit to the back case. I chose to use super sticky foam pads as I have done on my previous conversions with no problems.
Now it is time to fit the bind button/led unit to the back cover. Carefully measure and drill holes to accommodate the fixing screws.
Secure the unit. Not to tight as the pcb will flex and break if to much pressure is applied. I have also taken the precaution of thread locking the nuts and as a final measure sealed them with hot melt glue (not shown because it looks messy
).
And so on to the last bits.
You need to identify where the - + and PPM signals come from.
In the case of the Sanwa RD6000 Super they are here. Some people use the trainer port or other locations. These are what I have found work for me on this particular TX.
They will of course be different for each type of TX.
Some usefull resources are here. http://www.mftech.de/buchsen_en.htm
Now the only bit that requires any skill at all is to solder the three connections as carefully as possible.
Once you are done check and double check your soldering, and then check again.
Reassemble the TX using the reverse of the disassembly. Pay attention to the way the cables are routed internally so as not to trap any or cause them to foul on the stick gimbals.
Plug in the battery, switch on and pray that no magic smoke appears.
All being well you should see something like this. (TX dependant of course)
Check the bind butten/LED to ensure that all is good.
Red LED normal power.
Green LED low power range check mode.
Hook up your receiver bind and test.
Fit it into a model do a range check and go fly.
As stated before this is how I do it. You may have other methods. Whatever you do do it safely and carefully.
Why only a seven channel RX? The Sanwa is only a six channel TX so no need to buy a more expensive eight channel one.
A short video of the process and the finished working system.
Kev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... Ba4XR5IYo4
Using one of these.
Into one of these?
OK then.
First things first remove the telescopic 35MHz aerial by unscrewing it.
Then remove the 6 screws from the back case. I know I forgot to highlight them all.
Once done carefully remove the back and fold it over to the left (when looked at from the back). Be carefull at this point as the trainer socket is on a short length of wire.
Remove the two screws holding the trainer socket in place so that the back case is completely free.
At this point you need to decide how and where to locate the bind button/LED assembly and the main 2.4GHz unit.
As this is to be a pure 2.4GHz conversion removing any need for the telescopic aerial, I removed the plastic guides moulded into the back case. This gives me the option of mounting the main unit at either the top or the bottom.
Next thing to do is to decide the aerial position. In this case it was a simple decision. Use the existing hole. This needs a little work to increase the diameter of the exit to accommodate the 2,4GHz aerial connector. Remove a little at a time and trial fit until a snug fit is obtained.
Insert the aerial connector and attach the nut to the top and tighten gently.
Aerial fitted snug and tightened up.
View from behind.
The next job is to affix the hack unit to the back case. I chose to use super sticky foam pads as I have done on my previous conversions with no problems.
Now it is time to fit the bind button/led unit to the back cover. Carefully measure and drill holes to accommodate the fixing screws.
Secure the unit. Not to tight as the pcb will flex and break if to much pressure is applied. I have also taken the precaution of thread locking the nuts and as a final measure sealed them with hot melt glue (not shown because it looks messy
).And so on to the last bits.
You need to identify where the - + and PPM signals come from.
In the case of the Sanwa RD6000 Super they are here. Some people use the trainer port or other locations. These are what I have found work for me on this particular TX.
They will of course be different for each type of TX.
Some usefull resources are here. http://www.mftech.de/buchsen_en.htm
Now the only bit that requires any skill at all is to solder the three connections as carefully as possible.
Once you are done check and double check your soldering, and then check again.
Reassemble the TX using the reverse of the disassembly. Pay attention to the way the cables are routed internally so as not to trap any or cause them to foul on the stick gimbals.
Plug in the battery, switch on and pray that no magic smoke appears.
All being well you should see something like this. (TX dependant of course)
Check the bind butten/LED to ensure that all is good.
Red LED normal power.
Green LED low power range check mode.
Hook up your receiver bind and test.
Fit it into a model do a range check and go fly.
As stated before this is how I do it. You may have other methods. Whatever you do do it safely and carefully.
Why only a seven channel RX? The Sanwa is only a six channel TX so no need to buy a more expensive eight channel one.
A short video of the process and the finished working system.
Kev
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... Ba4XR5IYo4