RCModelReviews wrote:Okay, sounds as if there's a diode in there which will account for the voltage drop. I guess they're just trying not to exceed the maximum voltage rating of the camera even with a fully-charged 3S lipo.
Well, I figured out how to wire it all together, but as I mentioned on your latest FPV video comments thread, I'm unimpressed with both the camera
and the FatShark goggles.
The camera has awful resolution and although the replacement wide angle lens is certainly better, the distortion is distracting to say the least. Seems from further reading that the cameras prefer 9v, so maybe dropping the voltage even further may help. Whatever, I'll be interested to see how you go fooling around with the connections you mentioned on the video too.
As for the Fatsharks, well the quality is really el-cheapo for the money. For a start, my contrast and brightness switch crapped out after only a couple of uses. The switch seems to be faulty, or maybe the circuitry, as it does nothing sometimes and then reluctantly starts to work again for no obvious reason. Really pissed me off, that did.
As for the eyepieces...they are just rubbish and the plastic diopter inserts make things even worse, being too close to your eyes, so that one's eyelashes smear the lenses quickly.
I believe the newer Dominator* goggles use glass lenses, but I bet they are just simple magnifiers, instead of coated cemented doublets (let alone properly designed eye-pieces). I'm going to pull my Fatsharks apart and replace the optics with something much better, once I find out the size of the LCD panels and the focal length I need to image them properly. The image of the panels (if not the content) should be sharp as a tack, without any blue fringes or other rubbish, like I get now. Also with replacement eye-pieces I can set the magnification and thus the field of view to what I want.
* Edit: Useless for me anyway, because they don't have inter-pupil adjustment, which I must have.