RCModelReviews wrote:Okay, sounds as if there's a diode in there which will account for the voltage drop. I guess they're just trying not to exceed the maximum voltage rating of the camera even with a fully-charged 3S lipo.
rogueqd wrote:Sid, contact Fatshark, they will fix your contrast switch under warranty.
chrisjunkie wrote:Where do we get these $10 5.8ghz patch antennas you speak of?????
What I've just been thinking about recently is how do I calculate the heading and angle from the horizon to point the antenna based on the plane's GPS position? I have a huge amount of space left on the arduino so might as well put it to good use having a directional patch antenna and a diversity controller!
Sid Sideslip wrote:Have you had a go at dismantling your goggles yet? They seem to be glued together, although it may be some kind of clip arrangement.
Heres a short procedure on how to open:
(1) Remove the strap from the goggle (goggle holder is C shaped so strap loop can slide out)
(2) peal back the headset foam in the nose area
(so that the foam doesnt rip in half when the top case is removed)
(3) remove the 2 screws on the bottom
(4) hold the headset in your RIGHT hand with the lens facing to the RIGHT
(5) with your left hand, grab the top of the case and with your fingers,
pry top case from the strap holder
(6) the case will resist but dont worry ?its held in place by 3 snaps
(7) you may hear a CRACK?again dont worry, its just the snap releasing
(8) the center snap by the nose may break ?no problem its redundant
To exchange the LCD driver:
- note the direction the LCD tails insert into the connectors before removing
(they insert different face up - see attached photo)
- loosen Zif connector before removing
- remove LED backlight connector by pulling up from the connector, not the wire
(locking connector so pulling by the wire will break the wire).
- note the the LCD driver sits on a angle to fit inside the case
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