Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Discussion on the reviews of 2.4GHz radios, modules and receivers that have appeared on RCModelReviews..com

Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby Roger » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:12 am

Hi Bruce, nice going there - got to have something to do while the rain pours down I suppose (even though it is nice sitting in the arm-chair by the fire side..!)
Could you cover a little bit about what programming and mixing features the transmitter has, specifically for full house gliders (ie crow braking, flap settings, flight modes/ conditions.. etc) How many model memories does the tx have?
I am quite keen on the idea of a transmitter that can be reprogrammed and customised, like appears to be possible with this one...

With the module issue, is it possible that the reason that the aerial needs to be soldered on to the module is because the standard module bay only has a single pin for the PPM signal, not a double pin like would be required for the coax lead that goes to the aerial..? In the "normal" modules the PPM out pin is not used because the module box itself has the aerial connection connector, the old telescopic aerial does not get used...

I would also be interested in a good source of the solder connectors for the aerial wires from...
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby RCModelReviews » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:24 am

The problem of providing a removable connection for the 2.4GHz signal is a tricky one.

You can't just use a pin on the module because the losses would he far too high -- much of the power from the module would simply never make it to the antenna.

You can't use a UFL because they're only rated for about 20-30 insertion cycles before they become unreliable.

This would mean coming up with a different (and undoubtedly more expensive) alternative.

Perhaps an inline SMA-type connector would have worked -- but that would have added an extra $5 to the cost of the radio and as we know, these things are built to a price.

Of course, call me a cynic, but I also expect that FlySky/Turnigy don't want people removing the original module and using 3rd-party ones in these radios because they want to sell plenty of FlySky/Turnigy receivers as well.

It seems that even the Chinese are catching on to the profits that can be had from locking customers into their systems.
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby crampy » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:31 am

Hi Bruce.
Great work, keep it up. I"ll be keeping an eye open for more updates on these radios.

I've got a V1 using a FRSky module, plus I've done the battery mod you wrote up, but still need to get into it and solder in the resistor (cheers for that!). I find the battery pack I've made fits better than the 8x AA battery tray and it's lighter. The tray would mush the wires into the housing and risk breaking them off.

As for not being able to use 3rd party modules on the V2 (like the FRSky), can you not just cut the antenna wire off the Turnigy module and remove the antenna (seeing as it's only hot glued in) and then use the antenna that goes in the FRSky module? You could simply fill the hole (from the orignal antenna) with something to stop nasties getting in there. That would work fine wouldn't it? Also, if the original antenna was left there, would it interfere with the FRSky antenna?

Anyways, good work.

Thanks.
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby RCModelReviews » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:43 am

Yes you could just pull out the original antenna and use the one that is connected to the module -- but it's a shame they didn't make it so you could use the built-in one isn't it?

In fact, I'm thinking that a DIY kit might be a better way than a module to convert the V2 9X to another brand of 2.4GHz system. You could simply cut the internal antenna wire and remove that unit (the hot-glue isn't very strong) then remove the ciruit board from the Turnigy module and mount the bind-button/LED in the module with the wires going through the old hole they drilled for the antenna wire.

The DIY kit's antenna could then be fitted where the original built-in antenna used to go.

Nice, neat and tidy.

What's more, if you were fitting the Telemetry-enabled FrSky DIY module you could mount the LED on the front of the transmitter so as to more easily see the colour and flashing when an alarm went off.
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby Pisaneli » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:41 pm

Hi Bruce!

I would like to buy the Turnigy Tx and reading your review makes me want one even more. There is only one problem. In my country Slovenia we have very strict rules for importing devices. A lot of Hobbyking Tx have been rejected due to the missing CE and FCC labels.
Can you please tell me if the Turnigy has all the labels on the back of the Tx not only on the box.

Regards,
Gorazd
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby RCModelReviews » Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:58 pm

Pisaneli wrote:Hi Bruce!
Can you please tell me if the Turnigy has all the labels on the back of the Tx not only on the box.
Gorazd

The transmitter module carries the CE and FCC logos but there are no certification numbers.
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby Jayshergill » Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:22 pm

RCModelReviews wrote:
Pisaneli wrote:Hi Bruce!
Can you please tell me if the Turnigy has all the labels on the back of the Tx not only on the box.
Gorazd

The transmitter module carries the CE and FCC logos but there are no certification numbers.


I wonder if that would be a problem for me if I would like to get it shipped here to us?

Thanks again Bruce for all of your info and help.

Great website and youtube channel.

I'm looking forward to the Turingy 9X version 2(FHSS) video review with flight.
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby jonlowe » Fri Jun 25, 2010 1:36 am

Jayshergill wrote:
RCModelReviews wrote:
Pisaneli wrote:Hi Bruce!
Can you please tell me if the Turnigy has all the labels on the back of the Tx not only on the box.
Gorazd

The transmitter module carries the CE and FCC logos but there are no certification numbers.


I wonder if that would be a problem for me if I would like to get it shipped here to us?



Not been a problem shipping them to the US. I've got two.

Jon
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby Sidewinder » Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:01 am

mpthompson wrote:3. If I just wanted to use a 3S Lipo inside this transmitter, what specific one from HK has been tested to fit properly? I'll also consider doing the DIY $8 battery modification as well.

Thank you for putting this website and forum together. It's a great resource for those of us who are diving into RC flight and have a bit of a hacker mentality.


Below is the one that I used; it fits perfectly in the 9X V2 and the futaba plug on the batt fits the jack in the trans. Caution, I would only charge this lipo to storage level, ie: 3.8V per cell or about 11.4V on this 3 cell.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... (Futaba/JR)
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Re: Review: Turnigy 9X version 2 (FHSS).

Postby thos » Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:34 am

Hi Bruce, I'm revisiting radio control planes after 38 years.Its great to see someone so passionate about Radio Control systems giving so much, and I'm sure that it is greatly appreciated by all your readers including myself. I have an old still working 36 mhz JR Circus radio and have been looking to purchase a new radio. Thanks to your reviews I will give the inexpensive Turnigy V2 system a go.
It surprises me as a newbie that users of radio control systems have to change the module to get the performance required out of the transmitter. When I use to fly you would just wait for your turn. If only the manufacturers of the better sytems would make the radios as well. Then may be they do!
If one of the downfalls of the Turnigy V2 radio is no failsafe then I would have thought that an upgarde of software be able fix this ? I was also wondering if the circuit board is much different to the V1 as I would like to do the battery conversion when I recieve my radio? I was also wondering when doing the conversion, why you didnt use the the hole in the circuit board to the right of the resistor to terminate the resistor,giving the connection a lot more strength to the joint. I guess it isn't connected to resistor? Its hard to see connection points. :D
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