FPV backpack PCB build

[sloperdude]

I should say that if you're using the Fat Shark Dominator goggles with the internal receiver, you bought the right video TX module. I also have the Dominator goggles, but I want to put my receivers and antennas up on a pole where they'll work better, so I'm not going to use the Dominator's internal receiver.

[RCModelReviews]

I have a question or two, hmm, maybe three..
- Parts used in backpack build video and BOP is not same, what is correct parts?
- 1N4001 or 1N4007, they are rated to 100v and 50v, is this correct part to use (i thought something around 12-15v would be correct) and witch one is best to use/buy?

Any 1A diode will work here. I chose the 1N4001 through 1N4007 because they're cheap and readily available from almost everywhere.

- 22uf 16v 1210smd, i cant find this part, the ones i find look different. The one i find is yellow and solder points look different. I find one that look same as used in video, but thats rated to 25v.

It doesn't matter if the voltage rating is higher -- so long as it's ceramic and in a 1210 SMD package.

- What are the parts for audio? (1xresistor and 1xcapasitor? value?) and where do i connect microphone +/- ? (+ on last free pin and - on pin with all black?) what volt is microphone run on? The one i bought says 4-5v, can i use this?'

I'll do an update for adding the microphone components.

I have bought one 5.8GHz 200mW VTx module(on back says, Tx5823-101016) from range video. It says on their page that it will work with 5volt, can someone confirm this? If module need 5vdc should i then replace volt regulator to 5vdc on backpack instead of 3,3vdc listed/used? If i need to use the 5vdc regulator, do i need to do more modifications on backpack?

There is some *incorrect* documentation floating round for those modules -- it claims they're 5V but the truth is they are 3.3V and if you use 5V then the magic smoke comes out.

[rogeroed]

I should say that if you're using the Fat Shark Dominator goggles with the internal receiver, you bought the right video TX module. I also have the Dominator goggles, but I want to put my receivers and antennas up on a pole where they'll work better, so I'm not going to use the Dominator's internal receiver.

Im not sure if i understand what you write here. Have you bought the same module as I have? And is it compatible with dominator goggles Rx? And you use module to send signals down to the goggles? But you want to/plan to use 900MHz, 1,2GHz/1,3GHz or 2,4GHz to transmit/recieve, plane/pole, and then from module to goggles with 5,8GHz?
I have had this last plan and and fly on old (in my country) 35MHz system.
I havent bought goggles, not sure what to get.
Is FS Dominators the goggles with best resolution and integrated head tracker?
Does these goggles have crisp view all way from center and to all edges and corners? i have read that on some goggles its hard to read OSD.
If these are the "best", (possibly some better, but they cost a fortune i bet) where are the best price on them(goggles w/headtracker) these days? ..that is including S&H, and ship international( i live in norway).

Ok, so its the same if i use 1N4001 or 1N4007 (schematics say 1N4004), i thought they had to be between 12v-15v or something..hehe..so its job is to stop the current flow (max1A). is the part somewhat "adapting" to the enviroment in the way that it does its job (brake current, max1A) anyway between 0v all way to 50v/1000v? ...and it drops the voltage with around 1V in the process? ..and it lets current flow only one way. Anyway, i dont need to understand everything..never will do anyway..

Then the ceramic 22uF 16v 1210smd part(s). I see that the one you link to Sloperdude look same as Bruce use in video and fill part criteria perfect, but the one i find is..lets see i will try my first link..
http://www.futurlec.com/Capacitors/C022U16TSMD.shtml
Is this usable? can you link me to right one in this shop? btw, anyone have experience with them?
I thought it was very important to have same volt and capacitanse(22uF)..? What is difference between 16v and 25v capacitor in backpack? I thought capacitors was some sort of "reserve" current parts, like a battery. I have heard you, Bruce, say that they work as signal pass through, but not current. I think of when i turn off some elecrical components it takes some seconds before LEDs goes off, like on my power supply. I thought this was the work of the capacitors feeding LEDs until they are empty..?

That's a shame, because I don't think you'll be able to find a receiver module that works with it. You'll probably be stuck with buying an off the shelf receiver that costs more and wastes battery power through heat. The problem is that the one from Range Video (and Immersion RC) transmits on even numbered frequencies, while the transmitter and receiver modules from Foxtech FPV (you can also get them on eBay) transmit and receive on odd numbered frequencies. So they're incompatible.

I bought a Rx that is supposed to work with my module..i will try one more link..
http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?mai ... cts_id=213
I have not tried my parts, but sure hope they will work together..
I know (if i have read and remember right) my Rx, RC305, use a linear 5 volt regulator. i would like to see close up pictures and description of Bruce bypass job on this. I think its the same Rx, mine have RC301 and 2010-04-08 printed on pcb. It has a nice blue Rx module inside. Dont know what part no, since componet side of it is facing up.
Only thing i dont like about this reciver is antenna, but it doesnt matter since i will try build my own SPW...or buy.

There is some *incorrect* documentation floating round for those modules -- it claims they're 5V but the truth is they are 3.3V and if you use 5V then the magic smoke comes out.

OK, so you say i should aim for 3,3v on my module.
I dont understand why Rangevideo sell two modules, one 3,3v and one 5v? Is this wrong and they should be 3,3 both?
But, lets say its 5v..will it still operate normal on 3,3v? ...i know it will not work other way round

Ok, i see on schematics that part for microphone is one ceramic capacitor 4,7uF and one resistor 1,8kohm both in 1210smd package. ..and 1210 is just telling the size, is this correct? ..and my microphone has three leads +/-/audio, where do they connect? Is audio connected to last free pin on backpack and gnd to pin with black wires and vcc i get from ubec? have i got this correct?

Bruce, is it possible to get part list for your DIY Rx and 4port diversity (rogeroed@online.no). This way i can order all components in one order. Im going to follow your build videos. My goal is to build 2TX, 4Rx and a 4p-diversity.

I have one other Q regarding soldering station. I plan to buy hakko fx888, but dealextreme sold out before i got time to order. This is the cheapest 220v version i have found, though i dont know if its genuine. The only mod i have to do is power connector have to be 220v-240v two pin. Is there any easy way to convert 110v version sold for around $85 to 220v?
Maybe i should just buy a really cheap one like this:
http://dx.com/p/kada-936d-digital-solde ... 74?item=17

To the ones who etch their own pcb, do any of you use uv-sencitive boards? Do any of you use a uv-box? I would like to build my own uv-box, but dont know how. I need help connecting lets say 25 or 50 uv-led on a printboard and make them light even using say 12v source. I have read i need to make them in series of three with a resistor in front of them.
Is it so simple? if so, i just need to find the right resistor and start solder..


Thank you all for answer me.
Special thanks to Bruce for the videos you make and all time you use to help all of us.
I love this hobby and i love you all !! LOL, sounds like a hippie. I hope to like it even more when i finish the backpack and can try fpv for first time.

Regards,
Roger

[sloperdude]

Dominator Goggles: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19445__Fat_Shark_Dominator_3rd_Generation_modular_FPV_System.html

Forget what I wrote about it including a 5.8 GHz receiver. An internal receiver (that works on even frequencies) is optional, as is the head tracker. I was misinformed. I own a pair of Dominator goggles, but haven't used them yet. Yes, the Dominator is the top of the Fat Shark line, and the new standard in video goggles. They have glass lenses, unlike the previous models and the Predator, and are probably the best video goggles available, with clear optics. The Dominator head tracker plugs into a bay on the right side of the goggles. It costs about $70 from HobbyKing.

I plan to use only 5.8GHz. Period. Like Bruce does, I plan to put two 5.8GHz receivers on a pole. One receiver will be connected to the four lobe "skew planar" antenna, the other to a helical antenna for longer range. Both receivers will be connected to a diversity controller (I'm using the Eagle Tree "Eagle Eyes" http://www.eagletreesystems.com/OSD/EagleEyes.htm ground station which, among it's various functions, contains a two input receiver diversity controller, and four video outputs. The receivers will be connected to the Eagle Eyes ground station using a video cable. My goggles will be connected to the Eagle Eyes ground station by a video cable. A Digital video recorder (DVR) will also be connected to the Eagle Eyes by a video cable. The helical antenna will be mounted to a small pan/tilt unit, http://www.servocity.com/html/spt200_pan___tilt_system.htmlwhich in turn will be mounted on the pole, since the Eagle Eyes unit can also control a pan/tilt with two servos to track the video TX and the plane it's in as it flies.

I'm keeping the video link fairly simple. I intend to sit in a folding chair while I fly FPV, so I won't be needing a wireless link between my ground station and goggles in order to move around.

Diode: You're over complicating this. Any diode in the series 1N4001...1N4007 can be used. To be specific (and perhaps a little pedantic,) that means 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4003, 1N4004, 1N4005, 1N4006, or 1N4007. Buy any one of them, they'll all work. If you want to understand the electronics of Bruce's module, there is plenty of information online. But you don't have to know how it works to make it work.

22uF 16V 1210 SMD Capacitor: Bruce already responded to you that the ones you have will work. They just need to be 22uF 1210 SMD ceramic capacitors of at least 16V. If the voltage is higher than Bruce's specification, that's OK. That's a maximum voltage, not a minimum. Again, if you want to learn about the electronics of capacitors, there is plenty of info online. Try Wikipedia.

TX Module: Something doesn't make sense here. I checked out rangevideo, where you bought your video TX module and receiver. Rangevideo says they're compatible, but the rangevideo TX module transmits on even numbered frequencies, while the listed frequencies for the receiver are odd numbered frequencies. Either Rangevideo listed the wrong RX frequencies, or it's not compatible with your TX module. Both have to use the same exact frequencies to work. Also, the receiver shown does not have the yellow "A" sticker on it like the TX module does, which would have indicated that it used even numbered frequencies, like the TX module. Maybe Rangevideo got lazy with the info they posted for the receiver, I don't know. Again, I'd ask them about it, and make sure they check it out.

I don't understand why Rangevideo sell two modules, one 3,3v and one 5v?

They're both 200mw, so the preferred choice would be the 3.3V one, especially for this build, since Bruce's setup works on 3.3V, not 5V.

Soldering Station: You might check out this one from the HobbyKing EU warehouse: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=27826 They're out of stock now, but they've been getting back in stock in less than a month. I have a US model, and it works great. The quality is much higher than the price would suggest. It is a knockoff of a Hakko 936. Unlike the one you linked to, it has a single LED that lights up when it reaches it's set temperature, rather than a temp readout. But it costs a lot less, and works the same. HobbyKing also sells a tin filled with the gold metal shavings to clean the tip with, for about $5.

[sloperdude]

Just to be crystal clear, I should have written that each receiver will be connected to the Eagle Eyes ground station using a (separate) video cable, not both.

[rogeroed]

OK, ok. I just buy the 1N4001, and if i understod you right, two of the yellow capacitors i linked to.
I will buy the dominators too, with headtrack module..if nothing better should show up before i make a order..and im a little set back after my last order from HK...but i will come over it..

When it comes to my VTx module, im confused. I ordered both Tx and Rx from range video, as mentioned, and they have both a yellow round sticker with letter A on it. This make me think they will work together, but when i later will add a second VRx then i am "forced" to buy one more of the Rx i allready have..and not buy module and build one.
The voltage, if it must have 5v, can i then buy a 5v regulator instead of 3,3v listed in backpack build?
If i buy one of each (5v and 3,3v) and try the 3,3v one first, then the 5v if it doesnt work that well..?

Soldering station: Maybe i should go for the one you link to, but they charge overtime on shipping (probably not, but i get that feeling after check out and see what the total cost has come up to)..so it will cost me just over $50. And they are very sloppy having things in stock...and their customer service su.., but their prices keeps dragging me back again and again..

EDIT: I forgot to mention, i bet your setup will be good, Sloperdude.


Regards
Roger

[sloperdude]

If both your video TX and RX have the yellow "A" sticker on it, then they're compatible. It also means that, as I suspected might be the case, that Rangevideo copied the photo and data from a website (probably Asian) that uses the odd numbered frequencies. So the good news is, your video TX and RX match.

I'd contact Rangevideo about the 5V module you have, or just use it and see what happens. Since Rangevideo is the only vendor I am aware of that sells 200mW modules that are purported to run on two separate voltages, ask them. It wouldn't surprise me if they were the same thing, but that's just a guess.

I bought my soldering station from the International warehouse and spent $15 extra compared to buying it from the USA warehouse, because it was out of stock in the USA warehouse. But the USA warehouse quickly received stock. Even with the extra shipping, it only came out to about $50. So I suspect that you should be able to get it from the EU (DE) warehouse for about $35 shipped, plus VAT no doubt.

I'm pimpin' my FPV ride with a few more Eagle Tree items: the eLogger, OSD Pro, Guardian stabilization expander, GPS, baro airspeed & altimeter (includes variometer,) and servo current monitor. I got a GoPro Hero2 cam for HD video.

I'm also going to make a complete ground station with video monitor, power and cooling fan and install it into a metal tool case, to make it more portable and faster to set up. I'm especially interested in doing low altitude cross country FPV out in the country, as well as slope soaring video.

[rogeroed]

Now i have send email to rangevideo regarding the voltage VTx module operates on and frequencies it uses(both VTx and VRx).

Sloperdude, the solder station from HK will cost me, cheapest is just under $50 (HK warehouse ($14,99+$34,93=$49,92)). This is the cheapest shipping option (air parcel 1500g-1999g) to my country, Norway. If i order from euro warehouse, the price will be $52,- ($17,07+$34,93=$52,-). pretty stupid, that price is lower when i order from other side of world, but thats reality.

I dont know what type of flying i will do. oh, i know one thing i will do and that is to fly high, and maybe a long distance now and then. yeah, yeah, i will be carefull, and take small steps. I think most of the time i will fly close by and just enjoy the feeling, i hope to get, of flying the model aircraft fpv.

Now, the only pimpin' i will do with my ride is i bought FrSky Lipo Voltage Sensor FLVS-01 and FrSky FVAS-01 Telemetry Variometer Sensor. I hope i can mod my turnigy9x so i can view telemetry data on radio screen, this way i can program radio to bive me beep sound when i find rising air/lift. The volt sensor i hope to mount in a way so i can view/read display through fpv camera. This way i have all i need on plane.
On ground i hope to build 4 VRx, one with SPW and 3 with helical (5-7turn), and a 4port diversity controller.
One thing i would like to to is mount external antenna not only to my video gear, but also to my radio gear. This way i can sit in my car and fly fpv. The winter is long here in norway, and i freeze my fingers easy. So sitting in a warm car flying fpv with outside temp down to minus15-20celsius(5 to minus 4 fahrenheit) any colder and it will be too cold. I like it best in winter when temp is around minus 5-10celsius, 23-14fahrenheit, but even at this temp i feel its too cold to be outside for a longer period of time, so sitting in a warm car will be a little different experience..
I dont know how much, if any, signal loss i will have if i mount a 2-5m cable going from my radio to a high pole with antenna on top. I have bought a 1W 2,4GHz signal booster just in case.

[sloperdude]

]I thought you guys in Norway were more hardy than us. Here's a fellow club member (mrcss.org) slope soaring on a typical Minnesota winter day:

Snowflyer.jpg (50.62 KiB) Viewed 21335 times

We also spend New Years Day on the ice flying electric planes and helis & bungee launching slope foamies, before breaking for ribs and beer at a local rib joint. We invite a local electric flight club. In return, they let us fly at their field for three days during the summer. Clearly, our Freeze Fly is the better event.

[rogeroed]

hahaha..you gave me a good laugh, what a good picture...