sloperdude wrote:I should say that if you're using the Fat Shark Dominator goggles with the internal receiver, you bought the right video TX module. I also have the Dominator goggles, but I want to put my receivers and antennas up on a pole where they'll work better, so I'm not going to use the Dominator's internal receiver.
Im not sure if i understand what you write here. Have you bought the same module as I have? And is it compatible with dominator goggles Rx? And you use module to send signals down to the goggles? But you want to/plan to use 900MHz, 1,2GHz/1,3GHz or 2,4GHz to transmit/recieve, plane/pole, and then from module to goggles with 5,8GHz?
I have had this last plan and and fly on old (in my country) 35MHz system.
I havent bought goggles, not sure what to get.
Is FS Dominators the goggles with best resolution and integrated head tracker?
Does these goggles have crisp view all way from center and to all edges and corners? i have read that on some goggles its hard to read OSD.
If these are the "best", (possibly some better, but they cost a fortune i bet) where are the best price on them(goggles w/headtracker) these days? ..that is including S&H, and ship international( i live in norway).
Ok, so its the same if i use 1N4001 or 1N4007 (schematics say 1N4004), i thought they had to be between 12v-15v or something..hehe..so its job is to stop the current flow (max1A). is the part somewhat "adapting" to the enviroment in the way that it does its job (brake current, max1A) anyway between 0v all way to 50v/1000v? ...and it drops the voltage with around 1V in the process? ..and it lets current flow only one way. Anyway, i dont need to understand everything..never will do anyway..
Then the ceramic 22uF 16v 1210smd part(s). I see that the one you link to Sloperdude look same as Bruce use in video and fill part criteria perfect, but the one i find is..lets see i will try my first link..
http://www.futurlec.com/Capacitors/C022U16TSMD.shtmlIs this usable? can you link me to right one in this shop? btw, anyone have experience with them?
I thought it was very important to have same volt and capacitanse(22uF)..? What is difference between 16v and 25v capacitor in backpack? I thought capacitors was some sort of "reserve" current parts, like a battery. I have heard you, Bruce, say that they work as signal pass through, but not current. I think of when i turn off some elecrical components it takes some seconds before LEDs goes off, like on my power supply. I thought this was the work of the capacitors feeding LEDs until they are empty..?
sloperdude wrote:That's a shame, because I don't think you'll be able to find a receiver module that works with it. You'll probably be stuck with buying an off the shelf receiver that costs more and wastes battery power through heat. The problem is that the one from Range Video (and Immersion RC) transmits on even numbered frequencies, while the transmitter and receiver modules from Foxtech FPV (you can also get them on eBay) transmit and receive on odd numbered frequencies. So they're incompatible.
I bought a Rx that is supposed to work with my module..i will try one more link..
http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?mai ... cts_id=213I have not tried my parts, but sure hope they will work together..
I know (if i have read and remember right) my Rx, RC305, use a linear 5 volt regulator. i would like to see close up pictures and description of Bruce bypass job on this. I think its the same Rx, mine have RC301 and 2010-04-08 printed on pcb. It has a nice blue Rx module inside. Dont know what part no, since componet side of it is facing up.
Only thing i dont like about this reciver is antenna, but it doesnt matter since i will try build my own SPW...or buy.
RCModelReviews wrote:There is some *incorrect* documentation floating round for those modules -- it claims they're 5V but the truth is they are 3.3V and if you use 5V then the magic smoke comes out.
OK, so you say i should aim for 3,3v on my module.
I dont understand why Rangevideo sell two modules, one 3,3v and one 5v? Is this wrong and they should be 3,3 both?
But, lets say its 5v..will it still operate normal on 3,3v? ...i know it will not work other way round
Ok, i see on schematics that part for microphone is one ceramic capacitor 4,7uF and one resistor 1,8kohm both in 1210smd package. ..and 1210 is just telling the size, is this correct? ..and my microphone has three leads +/-/audio, where do they connect? Is audio connected to last free pin on backpack and gnd to pin with black wires and vcc i get from ubec? have i got this correct?
Bruce, is it possible to get part list for your DIY Rx and 4port diversity (
rogeroed@online.no). This way i can order all components in one order. Im going to follow your build videos. My goal is to build 2TX, 4Rx and a 4p-diversity.
I have one other Q regarding soldering station. I plan to buy hakko fx888, but dealextreme sold out before i got time to order. This is the cheapest 220v version i have found, though i dont know if its genuine. The only mod i have to do is power connector have to be 220v-240v two pin. Is there any easy way to convert 110v version sold for around $85 to 220v?
Maybe i should just buy a really cheap one like this:
http://dx.com/p/kada-936d-digital-solde ... 74?item=17To the ones who etch their own pcb, do any of you use uv-sencitive boards? Do any of you use a uv-box? I would like to build my own uv-box, but dont know how. I need help connecting lets say 25 or 50 uv-led on a printboard and make them light even using say 12v source. I have read i need to make them in series of three with a resistor in front of them.
Is it so simple? if so, i just need to find the right resistor and start solder..
Thank you all for answer me.
Special thanks to Bruce for the videos you make and all time you use to help all of us.
I love this hobby and i love you all !! LOL, sounds like a hippie. I hope to like it even more when i finish the backpack and can try fpv for first time.
Regards,
Roger