After run oil- cheap but good

[spitfire2010]

Title speaks for it's self.

Any suggestions

[RCModelReviews]

Some people use automatic transmission fluid, I've used Mobil 1 synthetic, and others swear by air-tool oil.

The ones you shouldn't use are WD40 (very little lubrication and not that good at rust-prevention) or anything with silicone in it (it will foul your plug when you run the engine next time).

I've found that the Fuschs AeroSave oil I use when making my own fuel has incredible after-run protection and so I've not had to bother with ARO since switching to this oil.

[spitfire2010]

Your not running nitro in your fule are you?

I think i've asked thsi before although i cant remember

Ian

[RCModelReviews]

Yep, I run 5% in my 2-strokes and 10% in my 4-strokes.

[spitfire2010]

Thanks Bruce.

[jeffie8696]

Motor oil for your car engine has a lot of rust preventatives and acid neutralizers that are very beneficial to glow engines.

[spitfire2010]

Just as a side thought would the engine motor oil gum up or leave deposits in the engine

[RCModelReviews]

There's the potential for some carbon -- that's why I used to use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. No residues at all.

[pushinoldrc]

Bruce,
I have read that some oils do not mix with methanol, and will separate, as castor oil does separates from petrol without additional additives (5% acetone is supposed to help suspend the castor oil). Have you had any issues with separation in your home brew?
Bryan

[RCModelReviews]

No, the oils I use are ester-based synthetics which blend very well with methanol. Most regular 2-stroke oils designed for gasoline use won't mix with methanol at all.

Some times of "modified" castor won't blend well with methanol but the ones intended for model fuels blend fine, so long as you don't use more than about 40% nitromethane. Once you get to that level of nitro the castor can come out of solution.