ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

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ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby RCModelReviews » Wed May 19, 2010 10:24 am

Read the review

It's a powerhouse but it's also got some annoying issues, mainly centered around the carburetor.

However, if you're after a "pedal to the metal" engine that puts out a snot-load of power yet costs little more than pocket-change, it's hard to pass up this engine.

I wouldn't recommend it for beginners however, an OS or TT engine will be a far more reliable workhorse.

Do you have an ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52?

Have you tried a Tower muffler on it?

I tested with 5% nitro, have you tach'd yours with higher nitro fuels?
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby Eric1180 » Sat May 22, 2010 12:52 am

Thanks so much for the great review. I just finshed breaking mine in with the instructions you provided. I was amazed how easy it was to start. I tacked mine during the break in at 9000 Rpm with a 11x6 with spinner and ideal was 3500 Rpm but I think I got it lower later on. My fuel is witch's brew 10% with caster. I have a remote needle valve and there weren't any problems. After i get back from flying tomorrow. I will post some better specks. I also am trying it out with a throttel curve and see if that helps. Maybe I can give a Avg. fuel consumption rate. I didn't read any thing about that.
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby siang » Mon May 31, 2010 10:51 am

Thanks for the review. I've an ASP.46, assuming it's the same as 52. I'm going to use it for my next plane for the first time, after running it in 2 yrs ago. I'm not sure if it'd fire up, lol. So I'd want to bench test it b4 assembling it on my plane. This is going to be my first time flying a nitro plane if it go. I've this question in mind.
I often seen people lifting their plane up when tuning the engine. What are they doing? Do I have to lift up my bench jigs on testing as well?
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby RCModelReviews » Mon May 31, 2010 9:53 pm

siang wrote:I often seen people lifting their plane up when tuning the engine. What are they doing? Do I have to lift up my bench jigs on testing as well?

It's normal (advisable) to lift the nose of the model to vertical when tuning the engine so as to make sure it won't go lean and die when you try to climb.

Because the fuel tank is behind the engine, raising the nose of the model will require the engine to suck fuel against the force of gravity from the tank to the carby.

This will inevitably cause the engine to lean out a little when compared to running with the tank and engine at the same level (as is the case when the model is on the ground). By raising the nose you can check that the needle is set rich enough that the motor wont's stop or start to bog down for lack of fuel.

I've seen plenty of models crash because the owner has tuned the needle for maximum power on the ground (generally quite lean) and not checked to make sure it will keep running when the nose is raised. Those planes go barreling down the runway, the nose points up, they start to climb, then the motor stops and they crash to the ground.

You don't need to do it when running on the bench.
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby siang » Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:03 am

oh kk, thanks. I dont have to do this on my heli. Is it not the same? I asked coz lately my heli engine sometimes feel like it's going to shut down, usually happen twice in a flight but always came back alive :). Had a feeling that it's a matter of when.
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby Mr Ed » Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:23 pm

The engine on the heli could be any number of things. Trash in the fuel line, air bubbles going through it or maybe just a tad lean. You could try going one or two clicks richer and see how that works. Also look for any trash in the line or tank. I hope you filter your fuel while adding fuel and between the tank and engine. I always double filter my fuel just to make sure. Hili's are a little different then airplanes and if your just doing a hover, not much is changing except the engine temp. Once you start going into 3D it gets worse. You may kill the engine by going lean if it's not set right. An airplane normally flies right side up and level most of the time unless you are going nuts with that too. If you get carried away then you need to run the engine at it's best which is a little on the rich side compared to say a trainer just flying around. Point the nose up and hold it for a few seconds to make sure it is not going to stop in a climb. With pressure feed on the engine it's not quite as bad, but you still need to check this. Even pressure feed will go lean in a steep climb. Always run the engine a little rich. Never tune an engine for max rpm on the ground, or you my be replacing or rebuilding your engine much more often. I normally adjust for max rpm and then back off 300 to 400 rpm on the rich side and then check it holding it up to make sure it won't die in a nose up climb. The best way to check this is with a tack. Just the sound of the engine will not tell you enough. I always tack my engines every time I start it up. Even during the same day things change. Changes in temp or humidity can change the way an engine runs.

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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby siang » Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:53 am

Thanks Ed, I'll try to set in on the rich side. I recall I did felt a better power when I rich it up b4 which is kind of odd but it did feel better. It's an advice I got from a very, very good heli flyer.
Lately I've been playing around with the tuning. As far as I can remember, I did rev the rpm up and also lean the enging up. I'm not sure when the problem start, before or after but it was doing ok b4.
I'm going to try the pinch test and set it to the rich side on my next trial. :)
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby evolusia » Mon Jun 28, 2010 10:10 pm

Hi, anyone have any info on the ASP/Magnum 52 heli engine. Its a ringed version of the 52 motor that Bruce reviewed. :P
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby jeffie8696 » Sat Jul 03, 2010 2:00 pm

I would have to say the vast majority of the troubles with the less expensive engine lie with the carb. Most commonly the inability to accurately meter the low speed mixture. I see them run rich at idle then die, ususally when the throttle is advanced. This is a terrible thing to have happen to a beginner (and not much fun for the rest of us) to have ones plane start to taxi for take off then die unexpectedly .
Also to have ones engine die while trying to set up on landings can be a test of your patience.
I have found that replacing the carb with a known good carb cures most all the trouble with an ill performing cheap engine. Currently I have been using Thunder Tiger DVII carbs I picked up cheap and are a fairly direct bolt on to Aviastar 46 and 53 engines. They are slightly smaller in bore throat and therefore the high speed power is slightly lower but the gain in good throttling at lower speed more than offsets the loss.
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Re: ASP/Sanye/Magnum 52 2-stroke glow engine

Postby RCModelReviews » Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:06 pm

Define "cheap" when it comes to alternative carbs.

With a "cheap" .46-52 engine costing about U$50 and a "good" .46-.52 TT46Pro costing about US$80 there's not all that much point in putting a $30 carb on the cheap engine -- why not just buy the TT46Pro and get a much better quality engine for the same total price?

I don't use "cheap" engines on my 3D profiles -- they just don't have the quality of throttle response needed for that type of application. However, if you're just intent in boring holes in the sky then cheap engines often work satisfactorily -- although the carbs are pretty basic.
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